(Re)production and The Loss of Culture and Tradition- A Case Study of the Gendered Tradition of Phulkari
Description
The research objective of the paper is to study the impact of changing trends and practices on Punjab’s cultural heritage product - Phulkari; To remark the loss of culture in the form of sentiments or emotions associated with the embroidering community and their product named Phulkari; To gauge the efficacy of the GI Tag given to the product in safeguarding the traditional practice and the interests of the women - community (stakeholders) that partakes in it. The objective of the study was realized by collecting data from traders/sellers and craftswomen/artisans using semi-structured questionnaires and key informant interviews. qualitative data of this study has been analyzed using NVivo 15 (a qualitative data analysis software). Its features such as automated coding, automated sentiment analysis, and word frequency analysis as part of the thematic analysis process has been extensively utilized. The analysis of responses of the select stakeholders using NVivo has been presented under two heads: in the first part, thematic analysis of the responses has been done whereas in the second part, the sentiments of the stakeholders with respect to Phulkari has been analyzed, collated and (re)produced. The thematic analysis of responses comprised of following themes: Phulkari work in contemporary times, existing designs and patterns, reasons for buying phulkari, process of acquisition, loss of culture and tradition in the event of commercialization, GI Tagging and its relevance. Extensive use of word cloud and tree map has been done to depict the themes pictorially. The terms such as "demand," "people," "customers," "embroidery," "phulkari," and "works" are predominant. This indicates that the responses from shopkeepers are primarily focused on the commercialization of the product. Artisans' perceptions encompass a broader range of lexical items. This suggests an emphasis on the transformation of intergenerational cultural practices, highlighting comparisons with traditional Phulkari practices. The artisans' responses address themes such as purpose, patterns, designs, methodologies, and the values associated with their products, as well as how this craft has become a source of empowerment for them. The interconnections between various words. Prominent terms such as "Work," "Phulkari," and "Now," along with their connections, align seamlessly with the auto-coded themes and subthemes mentioned above. This demonstrates the interlinkages amongst all terms and each theme.The sentiment analysis of the stakeholders using autocoding in NVivo reveals a mixed sentiment comprising of neutral, positive and negative emotions. The responses of the stakeholders have been categorised into the nature of sentiments. The analysis of data also reveals the demonstrable ineffectiveness of GI tagging in securing prosperity of artisans and significant erosion of its cultural significance.
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This study uses an empirical-inductive technique to gather data about the current status of Phulkari, with a focus on both cultural and commercial factors. The earlier research conducted by different academics and groups reveals the Majha region, lying east of the Beas River to be the primary hub for Phulkari's needlework. The purposive sampling technique was employed to collect data from the select marketplaces and colonies spread across Patiala's subdistricts and blocks. The selected stakeholders comprised of phulkari traders or sellers and local artisans or craftswomen. Mixed method was used to collect the responses of the select stakeholders using semi-structured questionnaires and Key Informants’ Interviews. Using a Likert scale, we developed questions for our selected target group of shopkeepers to gain insights into their perceptions regarding the commercialization of phulkari and its impact on this cultural product. The questionnaire was semi-structured, containing a mix of open-ended questions that allowed us to gain clarity on changes in embroidery practices. Additionally, it included a section with specific questions that focused on the knowledge and awareness of GI (Geographical Indication) tagging and its effects on phulkari as a cultural product. The interview was structured with a specific set of open – ended questions designed to gather detailed insights from women artisans about their lived experiences as continuous embroiderers in this hereditary practice. It aimed to highlight the changes associated with traditional practices and their perspectives on the revival of cultural products. The unstructured qualitative data of this study has been analyzed using NVivo 15 (a qualitative data analysis software). Its features such as automated coding, automated sentiment analysis, and word frequency analysis as part of the thematic analysis process has been extensively utilized. The analysis of responses of the select stakeholders using NVivo has been presented under two heads: in the first part, thematic analysis of the responses has been done whereas in the second part, the sentiments of the stakeholders with respect to Phulkari has been analyzed, collated and (re)produced.