Published: 28 November 2022| Version 1 | DOI: 10.17632/nzg8wkhcr7.1
pedro alves rocha filho


Abstract Emulsions containing vegetable butters have especially attractive properties in cosmetic technology. They are used as vehicle for topical application. Apart from that, the natural raw materials have pharmacological activity, increasing the necessity for the development of new delivery systems for them. The function of liquid crystals has been investigated mainly due to studies on the cell membrane and interest in research in the development of cosmetic products applied to the skin. Of immense importance was the elucidation of the composition of the protein lipid envelope that surrounds the corneocytes of the skin that are organized in the lyotropic lamellar liquid crystalline state. In this way, the formation of liquid crystal by the components of the formulation allows the incorporation of water-soluble, lipo-soluble and amphiphilic drugs within these layers. Therefore, they are structures of great importance for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, having different functions and that we can call "intelligent cosmetic forms" for the application of cosmetic products, mainly due to the structural similarity with the lipid protein envelope of the stratum corneum. This skin's protein lipid envelope decreases transepidermal water loss and keeps the skin soft to the touch, with accentuated features of rejuvenated skin. This research aims to develop cosmetic products containing vegetable butters, to study the formation of liquid crystal and physical chemical stability under different storage conditions. Then, O/W emulsions containing vegetable butters were developed at a fixed surfactant ratio and observed the formation of liquid crystalline phases. Surfactant system was consisted by Steareth-2 and Ceteareth-5. Emulsions were prepared by the emulsion phase inversion (EPI) method, presenting high stability independent on the HLB value. Results indicate that this method could be employed to attain stable emulsions, even if the required HLB value is not known



Liquid Crystal Templating, Lyotropic Liquid Crystal, Cosmetics Industry


Universidade de São Paulo